Mingma G becomes the first Nepali climber to conquer all 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen

Mingma G becomes the first Nepali climber to conquer all 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen

Renowned Sherpa climber Mingma G made history today by becoming the first Nepali mountaineer to conquer all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters without using supplemental oxygen. Mingma G Sherpa from Rolwaling reached the summit of Shishapangma (8,027 meters) in Tibet at approximately 4:06 PM, marking the completion of his feat, as confirmed by Imagine Nepal Treks. Previously, Mingma G had climbed Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Kanchenjunga, and Mt. Everest in 2022 without supplemental oxygen. His earlier accomplishments include summiting Manaslu in 2021, Gasherbrum-II in 2019, Lhotse and Broad Peak in 2018, K2, Makalu, and Nanga Parbat in 2017, Gasherbrum-I in 2016, and Annapurna in 2015, all without bottled oxygen.

Leading an 11-member team from Imagine Nepal Treks, Mingma G took the Spanish route pioneered by Edurne Pasaban in 2006 to reach the summit. The team now boasts five climbers who have completed all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. Mingma G's mountaineering career, spanning from 2007 to 2024, includes notable achievements such as summiting Everest from both the North and South sides, five ascents of K2, and climbing peaks like Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Manaslu (seven times). Born in the Rolwaling valley, he is also the first to summit Mt. Cheki-Go (6,257m), Mt. Bamongo (6,400m), and Mt. Chobuje (6,685m) via the west route.

Joining him in this milestone, American climber Dr. Tracee Lee Metcalfe became the first American to reach the true summit of all 14 highest 8,000-meter peaks. In 2024 alone, she summited five of these peaks, including Shishapangma, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II, and Lhotse.

Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan also etched his name in history, becoming the first from his country to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks. His achievements include multiple summits of K2, Lhotse, Broad Peak, and Manaslu, along with Nanga Parbat and Everest.

Japanese climber Naoki Ishikawa completed the true summits of all 14 peaks with his Shishapangma ascent, while Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, another key member of Imagine Nepal, realized his dream of completing all the highest peaks. Several other climbers from Imagine Nepal, such as Kili Pemba Sherpa and Macedonian climber Dr. Sashko Kedev, are also nearing this accomplishment.

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